Tuesday, September 29, 2015

2016 Fuji SL Teaser Video and Tech Specs - Claimed Frame Weight of 695g

2016 Fuji SL Super-light Climber's Bike - 19 Percent Lighter Than Ever Before

The Fuji SL was born out of the quest to create one of the lightest bikes in the world by building off our grand tour-winning design and introducing technology that shattered expectations of what’s possible. When meticulously evaluating where one tenth of a gram can be shaved, smart things happen.

Claimed Frame Weight: 695g

Not only is the SL significantly lighter, it’s significantly stiffer: 9% stiffer in the head tube, 11% stiffer in the bottom bracket, and 18% stiffer in the fork (than our Altamira) for maximum efficiency and superior handling.

How Did They Make It So Light?

The SL’s frame is manufactured using a process introduced with the Altamira in 2013 called “High Compaction” moulding, which combines internal and external moulds to produce a product that’s as finished on the inside as it is on the outside. This avoids the unnecessary addition of weight, and distributes resin more evenly during manufacturing, producing the strongest possible frame.

While the Altamira features eight bonded joints, the SL uses only four; the more bonding joints you eliminate, the stronger and lighter the frame becomes – as redundant material is removed and you’re utilizing carbon’s strongest properties of continuity. The SL’s seatstays and chainstays are molded into just two, hollowed pieces, including the dropouts – shaving grams and increasing strength. These reductions play a big role in why the SL is a remarkable 237 grams lighter than the Altamira – nearly double the weight savings most brands boast of their next generation road bike.

What About Stiffness?

A lightweight frame alone won’t get you up the mountain. The frame needs to be stiff to ensure every pedal stroke and every ounce of energy is efficiently translated into propelling the bike forward. The SL’s downtube is uniquely octagonal in shape, featuring flattened sections of ultra high-tensile strength carbon that is compromised if not used in flat orientations; the seat tube, top tube, and fork also feature flattened sections of high-tensile strength carbon, which maximize lateral stiffness.

The fork has a reinforcing rib – a patented technology from Fuji’s carbon manufacturer called Reinforced I-Beam or RIB technology – that runs the length of the fork blades, amplifying stiffness for razor-sharp steering precision.

The frame uses a PF30 bottom bracket, which further improves power transfer by allowing for the use of larger diameter, lighter, and stiffer alloy axles.

When climbing the world’s steepest gradients, the lighter the bike, the faster the rider conquers his mountain. And when meticulously evaluating where one tenth of a gram can be shaved, smart things happen.

The latest evolution of our road lineup uses some of our most successful technologies – High Compaction and RIB Technology – in new, unique ways, while utilizing brand-new innovations such as an octagonal downtube constructed of ultra high-strength carbon, injection-molded cable stops, and a frame with only four bonded joints.

The SL was cleverly and skillfully engineered to ensure the lightest, stiffest frame possible – a machine WORTH THE WEIGHT.

MAIN FRAME C15 ultra high-modulus carbon w/ High Compaction Molding System, integrated head tube w/ 1 1/2" lower, oversized press fit BB30 shell, double water bottle mounts
REAR TRIANGLE C15 ultra high-modulus carbon thin seatstays, oversized chainstays, carbon dropout w/ replaceable hanger
FORK FC-330 carbon monocoque w/ tapered carbon steerer & carbon dropout
CRANKSET      SRAM Red22 carbon, 53/39T
BOTTOM BRACKET      SRAM Red, press-fit BB30, ceramic bearing
FRONT DERAILLEUR SRAM Red22, braze-on mount
REAR DERAILLEUR        SRAM Red22, 11-speed
SHIFTERS SRAM Red22, ErgoDynamic, 11-speed
CASSETTE SRAM Red XG-1190, 11-26T
CHAIN KMC X11SL Ni-Ti plated, 11-speed
WHEELSET Reynolds RZR 46 carbon tubular
TIRES Vittoria Chrono CS 28 x 22mm tubular
BRAKE SET      EE Cycleworks eebrake
BRAKE LEVERS      SRAM Red22 ErgoDynamic
HEADSET FSA Super Lite, 1 1/8" upper - 1 1/2" lower, integrated w/ carbon top cover
HANDLEBAR Oval Concepts R910SL, carbon, 31.8mm
STEM Oval Concepts 777SL, 3D-forged 7050 alloy, 31.8mm, +/- 7°
TAPE/GRIP Oval Concepts 300, padded suede
SADDLE Ritchey SuperLogic Vector Evo
SEAT POST Ritchey SuperLogic Carbon Vector Evo, 27.2mm
WEIGHT, LB./KG. 10.91lbs. / 4.96kg.

Circle City Bicycles and Fitness
5506 Madison Ave.
Indianapolis, IN 46227
(317) 786-9244

Friday, September 25, 2015

Friday Photo - Baltimore Kinetic Sculpture Race

Kraken Upcycle - Winner of the 2015 Grand Mediocre East Coast Championship
Today's Friday photo comes from the 2015 Baltimore Kinetic Sculpture Race. This is a 14 mile "race" that includes a stretch in Chesapeake Bay. This year's winner of the Grand Mediocre East Coast Championship was the Kraken Upcycle. Most of the entrants are short on practicality, but show an amazing amount of creativity. Here's a video from the 2006 race that shows some of the entrants in action. This video from the 2015 event shows the Tick Tock Alligator entrant in the water. The event is hosted each year by the American Visionary Art Museum. If you want to see or enter the 2016 race, mark your calendar for Saturday, May 7, 2016.

Thursday, September 24, 2015

Got Squeaky Brakes? Here's How To Fix It

Follow these steps to get rid of that annoying noise

(Tips and photos from

The following tips will hopefully explain and illustrate some of the principles involved for the three main types of rim brakes commonly seen. The most important principle affecting noise is the angle of the pad relative to the rim: generally, the front must come into contact before the rear – known as ‘toe-in’.


  • 4, 5, 6mm Allen keys
  • Adjustable spanner
  • Abrasive block by Mavic or light sandpaper
  • 10, 11, 12, 13, 14mm offset brake spanners
  • 8, 9, 10mm Y-wrench
  • 0mm box end/open ended spanner

1. Clean-up act
If your pads still have a fair bit of material, you’ll need to clean them first. Wipe them off with a bit of damp cloth and check the wear indicator, usually a line about 2mm from the backing edge. If they’re worn beyond this mark, you should replace them. The pad will sometimes have developed a ridge along either the lower edge, which indicates that it’s set too low, or the upper edge, which could indicate it’s too high and risks wearing through the tyre over time. Using a coarse half round file or emery cloth, roughen up the surface, making sure to remove all signs of shiny hard glaze. Remove the pad first to improve access if required.

2. Rim in trim

The condition of the rim surface can have a great effect on braking and noise levels. Most rims now have a machined or heavily scored surface when new. This has gone a long way to reducing the need for masses of toe-in, but as this rough surface becomes re-polished, squealing can occur. Not only can pads get glazed, but so can rim surfaces. Removing pieces of embedded aluminium will keep the scraping noise down; you might have noticed little raised dots of metal which form through braking and deposit themselves on both the rim and pads. Use a Mavic abrasive rubber block or coarse emery cloth and wipe clean. Carefully remove embedded aluminium from the pads.

3. Pad points

Concave and convex washers provide rotational adjustment in all planes, and are included on many aftermarket pads which can be fitted to side-pulls, dual pivots, V-brakes and cantis. Kool-Stop popularised offset pads, which were orientated in such a way that more force was exerted at the front of the pad than the rear, minimising the need for substantial amounts of toe-in while simultaneously curing squashy brakes and squealing. In the late ’80s, Shimano introduced offset pads orientated with the long edge forward. Where possible, short edge forward is less prone to noise, but be sure the closed end of the metal pad holders is always pointing forward.


4. Snug and secure

First tighten the main fixing bolt to ensure the calliper is firmly attached to the frame. This will be a 6mm recessed nut with a 5mm Allen head, or an older style non-recessed 10mm hex head, preferably a nylock nut (with a nylon insert to prevent the nut working loose). Using a brake spanner or cone wrench on the back adjuster nut, release the front lock nut, tighten the adjuster nut enough that the arms don’t deflect under braking loads, while still moving freely, allowing snappy lever return. Re-tighten the lock nut against the adjuster nut. On some dual-pivot brakes, check the exposed pivot bolt, if any – it’s usually a 4 or 5mm Allen. Tighten firmly while retaining movement.

5. Side-pull toe-in
With the advent of concave/convex washer systems, toe-in adjustment achieved by bending the calliper arms has become pretty much obsolete, but among bikes being dusted off and taken out of the shed there’ll be a few skinny Weinmann side-pulls getting a second chance at glory. Bend the arm inward at the front – we used a Park tool that’s now discontinued, but you could use a small adjustable spanner positioned to grab the arm in a similar way. On current dual-pivot brakes you’ll often get a set of concave/convex washers making toe-in easy; if yours are slightly older and don’t have them, install some that do. Tighten pads firmly so they can’t be moved or twisted by hand.

6. Baggy pivots
Minimising flex and vibration is the main goal of this anti-noise exercise, so checking that the pivot mechanisms and bolts are tight is critical. V-brakes and cantis are attached to the frame posts using a 6mm bolt, usually Allen but occasionally with a 10mm standard head. The brake arm either rotates directly on this pivot, using a brass bushing on older cantilevers, or incorporates an integrated pivot system which displaces wear from the frame post to its own internal mechanism, shared by modern Vs and cantis. This will also include a spring and adjustment screw, which add mechanical complexity and wear possibilities. Replace if the arms are really baggy, and/or if any toe-in of over about 3mm is lost through play in the arm.

7. V-brakes
Toeing-in V-brake pads will require, in most cases, a 5mm Allen key. In some instances, the pad will use a nut on which you can use a 10mm Y-wrench; it will often incorporate an internal 5 or 6mm Allen fitting. One technique suggested by some of the pad manufacturers for setting toe-in is to insert a small piece of folded card between the trailing end of the pad and the rim. This will keep the rear part of the pad further away as you tighten the nut, and can be useful if you’re having trouble holding the pad in place by hand. Having the spring unhooked on both sides can also make life easier when positioning pads. Bring the pads against the rim to check they’re at the correct height, and then tighten firmly.

8. Canti correcting

If your cantilever brakes have an external return spring then it can be easier to position the pads if you unhook the spring first; the arm won’t then fight you as you’re trying to line up the pad against the rim, and fine tuning will be easier. To toe in the pad use a 10mm spanner to immobilise the brake pad mount, then loosen the front nut using a 5 or 6mm Allen key. Some designs reverse this configuration or even require two 10mm spanners. When setting up the pads, leave roughly a 2mm gap at the back of the pad. If the pad keeps moving back into its previous position, try rotating the washers and clamping the pad either a little higher up or down the arm, to avoid the old marks left by the previous setting.

9. Swap brake type
Cantilever brakes can be tricky to silence, especially on skinny steel touring forks which are more prone to flexing. One thing that doesn’t help is a design that favours noise-making, where the brake pad post clamp sits way out in front, forward of the arm and mount. If you’ve tried everything to stop the squealing and still no joy, you might have to resort to a different design altogether. One to consider would be the inboard type pictured here, which seems to squeal less; both Ritchey and Avid offer this more compact design. Compare the forward type pictured in step 8 above with the rear mount design pictured below, which minimises flex in the brake arm, reducing the likelihood of high frequency vibration.

Them's the brakes

Brake squeal is caused by vibration, as that’s a fundamental requirement of generating sound (unless you’re riding in a vacuum). Vibration between the rim and pad can be caused by many things, but is most commonly a result of the interface between the pad and the wheel rim. Sorting your brakes out using all of the steps above will make sure your brakes are as good as they’re going to be, but there’s no hard and fast rule that will guarantee that you still won’t be getting brake squeal. The most common remedy, and often the quickest, is to fit a new set of brakes pads to freshly cleaned rims.

Dual compound pads can help to reduce the chance of the dreaded brake squeal coming back. The harder section of the pad gives slightly less friction than the softer sections and also serves to clean up the rim as you use your brakes. This kind of pad gives the best of both worlds: plenty of performance when you really haul on the anchors and clean rims for smooth, squeal-free braking.

Circle City Bicycles and Fitness
5506 Madison Ave.
Indianapolis, IN 46227
(317) 786-9244

Tuesday, September 22, 2015

NEW Shimano Tiagra 4700 Improved Performance and Ergonomics

NEW For 2016- With 4 New Four-Arm Chainset, Updated Shifters and Under Tape Cable Routing

 One of the most major updates is bringing internal cable routing to the shifters. The cranks also adopt the new 4-bolt pattern that, while high-performing, has be divisive especially as it has limited replacement availability at the entry-level. The new 4700 group comes in this new Meteor Grey finish.

The shifter body has the same compact shape as 105 and Ultegra. That means it has a recognizable feel if you’re coming from a bike with one of those groupsets, and if you’re stepping up from older Tiagra, well it’s a much nicer groupset to use.

The gears shift cleanly and smoothly. It’s a quiet groupset. Shift feel is perhaps a tad heavier than Dura-Ace or Ultegra. Shimano says it has revised the cable pitch on the rear derailleur, claiming it now offers “precise and long-lasting shifting performance”.
The double front derailleur gets the updated extended geometry with a longer lever arm for faster shifting that is now across the 11 speed groups. The triple front derailleur doesn’t get the long lever arm, but the linkage is redesigned and hollowed out for theoretically more stiffness and a bit less weight.

Rear derailleurs get smoothed over a little bit and again add the longer lever of the more expensive groups with the cable bolt moved past the P-knuckle pivot. This should yield better shifting and supports up to a 34 toothed cassette. It also puts the aesthetic a bit closer inline with 105, and less angular than the previous Tiagra 4600.

Shimano offers the new chainset, which borrows the four-arm design first debuted on Dura-Ace, in 53/39, 53/36 and 50/39/30 options as well as 50/34 Compact. There’s a choice of cassettes as well, and two rear derailleur options: one goes up to 28t, another right up to 34t.
The dual-pivot brakes look the same, but claim a 30% boost in power with better modulation. The flat bar shift and brake levers look to carry over from 4600 with just updated finishes to match. Hubs carry over too, in black or silver, hopefully with 11 speed compatibility.

Circle City Bicycles and Fitness
5506 Madison Ave.
Indianapolis, IN 46227
(317) 786-9244

Monday, September 21, 2015

National Cycling Jerseys

Check out Circle City Bicycles' national jerseys
We now have our selection of National Jerseys out on our website. There you can find jerseys for every nation in North America, most of Europe, and Australia. Proudly show your heritage while cycling around town.

Friday, September 18, 2015

Friday Photo - Cycling Through the World's Driest Desert

Cycling through the Atacama Desert in Chile
This week's photo comes from the Wandering Nomads. Among their many travels was a trip through the Atacama Desert, the driest in the world. The average annual rainfall for the desert is 0.6 inches, but there are regions where it has never rained in recorded history. Guidebooks describing the area say "Nada, nada, nada" (nada is Spanish for nothing). As you can see in the photo, virtually nothing grows in the driest regions. It brings to mind Buzz Aldrin's description of the surface of the moon: "Magnificent desolation."

Thursday, September 17, 2015

Artisitic Cycling - EMS Cup - Slovakian Woman Wows the Judges

Maybe you are like me, and have never seen or even knew that artistic cycling existed. While in the US, we have certainly seen great tricks on all types of bikes, it would appear that this relatively new concept ads elements of dance, synchronized pairs, acrobatics, and danger.

You can find many examples on YouTube. Shockingly the audiences for these events seem to be like a little league game. Only the relatives and friends of the performers seem to be in attendance. One you woman from Slovakia seems to have impressed the judges and the YouTube crowd.

Since I don't understand the language, I'm not even sure if Nicole Frýbortová krasojízda won the EMS cup, but if someone beat her, I'd love to see that video. Over 1,000,000 have seen this one. 

 Nicole Frýbortová krasojízda began riding and learning her style at age 7. At 21, she is hoping to compete at the top levels of this sport.

Let us know your thoughts about her performance and about artistic cycling in general. Shouldn't this be an Olympic event.

Tuesday, September 15, 2015

2016 Scott Genius 740: The Ultimate Trail Bike

Scott's Entry Level Genius Will Still Amaze You 

You'll be ready for the trial, no matter what it throws at you!

If you are looking for a bike that can handle tight, technical singletrack, steep climbs on fire roads, rocks and fast descents, look no further than the Scott Genius 740.

From the ground up, Scott has designed the Genius line of bikes to be the ultimate trail bike. The 740 offers the in-between 27.5" wheel size and boasts 150mm travel. The benefit of having 27.5" wheels (or 650b) is a decrease in rolling resistance and increased traction, without the added weight of the 29er.

On these 27.5" wheels Scott places a gorgeous hydroformed alloy 6061 frame in a matte grey and lime green paint scheme. The bike comes fully equipped with a custom FOX Nude shock and a FOX 32 Float Performance fork with three modes.

Scott's patented Twin Loc technology now offers simultaneous control of rear shock travel and fork lockout. The open position allows full travel, front and rear. One click switches the rear shock to Traction mode, while the fork remains fully active. Click again and rear shock and fork lock at the same time. No other bike in the world offers this user friendly system.

If needed, you can customize your bike's geometry by a shock mount chip in the linkage. By changing the shock mount chip - simply removing it and flipping it in either mounting position - you affect the bottom bracket height by 7mm, which also affects the head tube angle by 0.5 degrees.

Shimano fills out the drivetrain, with it's XT Shadow Rear Derailleur and Deore Front Derailleur. The brakeset is also by Shimano - SLX Disc Brakes. Sychros handles the handlebar and seat for a comfortable ride on your hands and rear end. Check out the specs:

Genius Alloy 6061 custom butted
Hydroformed tubes / tapered Headtube
BB92 / IDS SL DM dropout for 142x12mm
U-Mono Link / rear 180PM
BB height adj.
700 Series: Front 150mm
Rear 150 / 3 modes / Shock 200X57
900 Series: Front 130mm
Rear 130 / 3 modes / Shock 190X50
FOX 32 Float Performance Air
FIT4 3-Modes
15mm QR axle / tapered steerer
Lockout / reb. Adj.
Rear Shock
FOX Float Performance Elite / 3 modes
DPS / Lockout - Trail - Descend
reb. Adj.
Remote System
SCOTT TwinLoc Remote Technology
3 modes front and rear
Syncros Comp / Tapered 1.5" - 1 1/8"
semi integ. OD 50/61mm / ID 44/55mm
Rear Derailleur
Shimano XT RD-M781 SGS / DM
Shadow Type / 20 Speed
Front Derailleur
Shimano Deore FD-M618-E / DM
Shimano Deore SL-M610-I
Rapidfire Plus / 2 way release
Shimano SLX M675 Disc
180/F and 180/Rmm SM-RT54 CL Rotor
Shimano FC-M627
2-piece Design
700 Series: 38x24 T / 900 Series: 36x22 T
Shimano BB-MT500-PA / shell 41x89.5mm
Syncros FL2.0 T-Bar
Alloy 6061 D.B. / T shape Flat / 9° / 740mm
Handlebar Stem
Syncros TR2.0
6061 / 4D forged / oversize 31.8mm
1 1/8" / 700 Series: +6° / 900 Series: -6°
Syncros FL2.5 / 31.6mm
Syncros XM2.0 / CROM rails
Hub (Front)
Shimano HB-M618 CL / 15mm
Hub (Rear)
Shimano FH-M618 CL
142x12mm / DT RWS axle
Shimano CS-HG50-10
11-36 T
Stainless Black 15G / 1.8mm
Syncros X-23 / Eyelets / 32H
Front: Nobby Nic / 2.25
Rear: Rocket Ron / 2.25
Kevlar bead / Performance Series

Circle City Bicycles and Fitness
5506 Madison Ave.
Indianapolis, IN 46227
(317) 786-9244

Monday, September 14, 2015

Mega Cavern Mountain Bike Coupons at Circle City Bicycles

Stop by Circle City Bicycles & get your Mega Cavern $5 off Coupon
In a recent post I wrote about the staff's trip to the Louisville Mega Cavern Underground Bike Park. They liked it so well I sent an email to them & said "Why don't you send us some discount coupons that we can hand out to our customers & promote your business. To my surprise, they sent us some. If you are planning on going there, come in get one. They are business card size, and are in a business card holder near the cash register. Of course, you can also just ask any associate for one.

Friday, September 11, 2015

Friday Photo - Donald Duck Bicycle

Donald Duck Bicycle now on eBay
A lot of people are into collecting bicycles these days. It has never appealed to me, but I would love to have one of these. This has got to be the coolest bike ever made. Not only does it have Donald's head protruding forward, but when the ride activated the horn, it made a quack quack sound and Donald's eyes lighted up.  These were only made for a short time around 1950, and are now highly prized by collectors. The auction ends on Sunday, September 13. As I'm writing this, the top bid is only $405. It will probably end up going for several thousand dollars.

If you would like to see one in real life, the Bicycle Museum of America in New Bremen, Ohio has one. When you visit their website, click on the button for their virtual tour. They don't mention it in the video, but the camera pans by it after they mention Pee-wee Herman's bike.

Thursday, September 10, 2015

Arrogant Bastard Beer Jerseys

Love Arrogant Bastard? Want To Stand Out On The Road?

 We currently have over 40 jerseys available, most featuring designs inspired by microbreweries around the country. Famous beers such as Blue Moon, Black Butte, Coors and Anchor Steam are represented. Check them all out HERE

Circle City Bicycles and Fitness
5506 Madison Ave.
Indianapolis, IN 46227
(317) 786-9244

Tuesday, September 8, 2015

How to Change Your Handlebar Tape

Want to add some color to your handlebars? 

Or just need to change out the old tape? Knowing how to install your own handlebar tape is an essential skill.

A well-thought-out handlebar wrap takes into account the way your hands sit in the drops so that the tape lasts long and provides the cushion and slip-proof grip you need for long days in the saddle.

"If your thumbs sit more toward the top of the bar, it means your hands roll more to the outside," explains bar-wrapping expert Mike Spilker of High Gear Cyclery in Stirling, New Jersey, the former head mechanic of the Navigators Insurance Pro Cycling Team. "That means you want to wrap away from you." (That's clockwise on the right, counterclockwise on the left, so that the natural roll of your hands goes with the tape instead of pulling it loose.) "If your hands roll more to the inside, wrap toward you," Spilker says. (Or, counterclockwise on the right, clockwise on the left.) Take a test spin with your hands on the base of the drops to figure out which direction is right for you.

Available at Circle City Bicycles:

Make sure to remove all traces of your old tape, including left-over adhesive. Wash your hands, and get to work!

What you need:

1. Electrical tape

2. Bar tape (usually comes packaged with two short pieces for brake levers, if not cut your own 3-inch pieces)

3. Scissors


1. Find a secure location for your bike. A repair stand is preferable because it will keep your bike still while you work.

2. Tape your cables down. Tape them down in multiple places so that they won’t get in the way while you wrap and will be covered evenly.

3. Roll up the material that is over the part that connects your brakes and handlebars. Cover the brake-lever clamps with the 3 inch short pieces of bar tape so it is evenly protecting them on both sides.

4. Start the roll of bar tape at the bottom of the bar. Have a bit of excess coming off the bar.

Photo from

5. Now wrap around clockwise (or counter clockwise; see above). You want to always wrap over about half of the tape that was wrapped before it. Pull tight as you wrap.

6. When you get to the bend you want to still cover half of the previous tape. You don’t want to leave space. Go under the bend, and then over, and do this a couple times so to cover any exposed bar near the brake-lever clamps. Pull very tight so that no flaps are created.

7. Once you have wrapped the bend continue wrapping until the end, over all of the taped cables. Wrap a couple times after your preferred end point, and cut your tape.

Photo from

8. When you get to the end (the midpoint of the two handlebars), use the electrical tape to tape down the bar tape. Use about a foot of electrical tape and wrap tightly.

9. Repeat steps 2-7 with other handlebar.

10. Insert your plugs at the end of each handlebar, making sure all excess tape is snugly pushed underneath the plugs.

And you're done!

Circle City Bicycles and Fitness
5506 Madison Ave.
Indianapolis, IN 46227
(317) 786-9244

Monday, September 7, 2015

2015 Rollfast Gran Fondo in Carmel

George Hincapie (right) and, Christian Vande Velde (left)
were guests at the 2014 Rollfast Gran Fondo
The Rollfast Gran Fondo will be held this Sunday, September 13 in Carmel. There are three routes available:

  • 25 miles
  • 65 miles
  • 100 miles

 This is a timed event, but you don't have to be a fast rider. The ride starts at 8:00 A.M. and you have until 5:00 P.M. to finish. This year's special guest is Boll Roll, one of the commentators on NBC Sports Tour de France coverage. You can even sign up to enjoy cocktails Saturday night with Bob. It's limited to 30 guests and only costs $200 (Those better be good cocktails).

If you go, be sure to look for Circle City Bicycles in the vendor area. Mike and Mitch will be there, along with lots of great deals on Scott & Boardman bikes.

Friday, September 4, 2015

Friday Photo - Walking Bike

Walking bike photo courtesy of Arkitip
Here's one of the more unique bicycles I have ever seen. The creator calls it a walking bike. I find it interesting, but am not sure about its practicality. Instead of two tires, it requires eight pairs of shoes, which is a lot more expensive. "How does it ride?" you ask. Well, take a look for yourself in this video.